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Lake Dian, also known as Kunming Lake or the Pond of Kunming
and in ancient times as the Marsh of Southern Yunnan, is a
scenic stretch of water situated on a plateau to the southwest
of the City of Kunming. Stretching 40 km north to south and
eight km east to west, it sits at an elevation of 1886 metres
above sea level, looking like a vast sea extending to the
distant horizons. Dominated by the two mountains of Jin'Ma
or Golden Horse and Bi'Ji or Emerald Chicken, respectively
on the east and the west, it is a beautiful azure lake, sometimes
covered in mists and fog and dotted here and there by white
sails. Because of it scenic charm, it has the reputation of
being "a gem on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau."
In the Ming Dynasty (1368---1644) the scholar Yang Shen composed
the following poem entitled "Glimpses of Spring"
to celebrate the beautiful scenery here:
A windy lake is Dian yet never any dust is seen,
The newly green isle Ding in the far horizon lies.
Beauty one enjoys here as in land south of the Yangtse River,
A vast ripply lake in spring with distant foam lily white.
Indeed when one visits Lake Dian in spring, he will find himself
in a quiet wooded world where he can bask in the sweet warm
breezes of the season. The little isle of Dingzhou is covered
all over with green plant life interspersed here and there
with patches of blooming bright-coloured flowers while on
the lake surface wavelets spread and beat gently against the
shores, tossing up glittering spray and white foam. Lake Dian
is indeed an enchanting place to visit in spring.
If one ascends to what is known as the Dragon Gate up on
the Western Hills and looks down, one has a panoramic view
of the azure lake, slightly wrinkled in the winds and extending
to the distant horizon.
If one runs the eye over the lake from Da'Guan'Lou or Grand
View Mansion standing on the northern bank of Lake Dian, he
has a different kind of visual experience. The waters seem
to be undulating in tight to where one stands while small
boats are seen dallying in the light haze over the azure lake.
The sunset scene here is particularly fascinating when the
beams of the dipping sun somehow filter through the mist and
fog to create a seductively enchanting scene.
If one goes boating on the lake, drifting along aimlessly
on the blue waters amidst the reflections of the white clouds
in the sky, one may suddenly realize how amazingly vast is
the sky above. If it happens to be raining, the boundless
lake will half lose itself in misty drizzles and the sky and
the waters will be merging with each other, adding somehow
to the scenic charm of the haze-veiled lake.
Of the many scenic attractions of Kunming, the one most noteworthy
is the Western Hills lying on the west bank of Lake Dian.
The Western Hills are also known as Bi'Ji'Shan or the Emerald
Chicken Mountain. Legend has it that there is once a young
woman whose husband is kidnapped and taken to a remote place
as a slave. Missing her husband terribly, she cried inconsolably
day and night. In the end her tears flow together to form
Lake Dian and she herself falls on her back to become the
Western Hills. Then there is a phoenix that alights on the
spot to mourn over her which people mistake for a chicken.
Hence the name Emerald Chicken Mountain. As the Western Hills
also look like a sleeping Buddha, it is also known as the
Sleeping Buddha Mountain. The southern part of the Western
Hills is featured by sheer precipitous cliffs while the northern
part is featured by deep and secluded ravines. In the hills
are several famous temples. One is Hua'Ting'Si or the Flower
Pavilion Monastery which in ancient times was known as Yun'Qi'Chan'Si
or Monastery of Dwelling Clouds. Here the 500 sculptures of
arhats or luo'han in Chinese are amazingly true to life, each
in a different posture and wearing his own peculiar expression.
Another is Tai'Hua'Si or the Great Flower Monastery, also
known as Fo'Yan'Si or Buddha Rock Monastery where one finds
such beautiful architectural structures as Green Lotus Hall,
Tower of Distant Views, Tower of Boundless Green, etc. From
the Tower of Boundless Green one commands an unobstructed
view of Lake Dian.
San'Qing'Ge or Taoist Temple of the Three Pure Ones is an
architectural complex consisting of twelve halls and pavilions
built at nine levels together with a stone arch. In the Yuan
Dynasty (1206---1368) it was the site of the summer villa
of a Mongolian prince known as Liang. Later it was rebuilt
into Lin'Xu'Ge or Temple of Soaring Skies which was then renamed
Yu'Huang'Ge or the Jade Emperor's Temple. In the Ming Dynasty
(1368---1644) it became Hai'Ya'Si or Temple of Distant Seashores.
From the Temple of the Three Pure Ones, which is the name
being used today, a stone path looking like a tunnel winds
its way up, ending at Da'Tian'Ge or Pavilion That Reaches
Heaven. Known as Long'Men'Shi'Dao or the Dragon Gate Stone
Path and consisting of nearly 1000 steps, it was hacked out
of solid rock entirely by hand up a steep, almost vertical
cliff during the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty.
It took the stone masons a full 72 years to complete the path
and some other structures---now a great tourist attraction
in Kunming.
Of the many places of scenic interest in the Western Hills,
the Dragon Gate at the summit stands foremost. The Dragon
Gate is an antithetical couplet which reads as follows:
Looking up I fell the pride of having the sky within my reach,
Looking down from on high I am surrounded by boundless seas.
The couplet has captured in a few vivid words all the grandeur
of the surrounding scenery.
The Grand View Mansion in Grand View Park on the bank of
Lake Dian was built at the time of Emperor Qianlong of the
Qing Dynasty. Here magnificent towers and pavilions stand
in the midst of luxuriant trees. From here one can have a
good view of the lake and the surrounding hills. The mansion
used to be the venue of meetings of local men of letters who
gathered to compose poems and exchange their views on literary
and other matters. Here is found the famous long antithetical
couplet by one Sun Ran of the Qing Dynasty. One hundred and
eighty characters in length and inscribed in very forceful
calligraphy in gold on a royal blue ground, it is believed
to be the longest couplet ever composed in China.
Hei'Long'Tan or Black Dragon Pool located at the foot of
Black Dragon Hill on the northern outskirts of Kunming is
another place of great scenic interest in the city. Here one
sees an exuberant growth of towering trees and bamboos in
the midst of which gurgles a crystal-clear spring surrounded
by luxuriant plant life. The Black Dragon Pool is formed by
a spring gushing naturally from underground, it is believed
to be the longest couplet ever composed in China.
Hei'Long'Tan or Black Dragon Pool located at the foot of
Black Dragon Hill on the northern outskirts of Kunming is
another place of great scenic interest in the city. Here one
sees an exuberant growth of towering trees and bamboos in
the midst of which gurgles a crystal-clear spring surrounded
by luxuriant plant life. The Black Dragon Pool is formed by
a spring gushing naturally from underground. The clear water
is somehow darkish in colour. Hence the name Black Dragon
Pool. Two Taoist temples are found here, known respectively
as the lower temple and the upper temple, located on what
reputedly is the site of a vanished Han Dynasty memorial temple.
The lower one, named the Black Dragon Temple and situated
west of the pool, was built in 1394 in the Ming Dynasty. By
the side of the pool there is a tomb whose history dates back
to the Ming Dynasty. According to history, a resident of Kunming
named Xue Erwang who lived towards the end of Ming lived in
self-exile here with his family and, refusing to submit themselves
to the new rulers, they drowned themselves together in the
pool.
Walking up the stone steps of a tree-shaded path, one soon
comes in view of the magnificent upper temple whose name is
Long'Quan'Guan or Dragon Spring Taoist Temple. This is an
imposing multiple architectural structure with a succession
of three big temple halls. On the temple grounds are many
curious and exotic plants of which the most notable are the
three referred to as "the three old trees of the Black
Water Temple"---a plum of the Tang Dynasty, a cypress
of Song and a camellia of Ming. The plum is said to have been
planted personally by Monk Dao An Tang. The cypress, rising
to a height of 25 metres, looks tall and stately with luxuriant
foliage and age seems only to have brought it strength and
venerability. From these two and the third, a camellia of
Ming of a variety known as "early pink", the poet
Guo Moruo once drew inspiration for the following poem:
The camellia is laden with early pink blossoms,
Chivalrous it looks under a hundred red clouds.
This causes the sleepy-eyed Tang plum to wake up.
And adds beauty to the towering cypress of Song.
Towering high they paint pictures in the sky,
Bending low the ground pink and red they dye.
O the three wonderful trees in the great ancient temple,
Forever you will live and sing of the new happy life.
Today the Black Dragon Pool has been made part of a beautiful
park bearing the same name. People say of the Black Dragon
Pool that there are four invaluable treasures here whose history
dates back to ancient times: a memorial temple of the Han
Dynasty, a plum of Tang, a cypress of Song and camillia of
Ming.
What is known as Lake Erhai is another beautiful lake in
the Province of Yunnan, situated north of the City of Dali.
It has got the name Er'Hai in Chinese because it is shaped
like a human ear which in Chinese is er and because the surging
waves here make it look like a sea or hai in Chinese. Lake
Erhai is an extensive stretch of water covering some 320 sq
km, 40 km long and 8km wide, beginning from Eryuan in the
north to Xiaguan in the south, sitting at an elevation of
nearly 2000 metres above sea level. Into Lake Erhai flow the
waters of several rivers, Xi'er River in the north and in
the west the several streams meandering at the foot of the
Diancang Mountain. The lake has an outlet near the City of
Xiaguan where its waters flow into Yangbi River and further
south into Lancang River.
Lake Erhai is lucid green, wrinkling with luminous ripples
and dominated by the snowy peaks of the Diancang Mountain.
That is why when speaking of the beautiful scenery of the
region people refer to the wind of Xiaguan, the flowers of
Shangguan, the snow of the Diancang Mountain and the moon
over Lake Erhai. Of the four beautiful elements of natural
scenery, namely, wind, flowers, snow and moon the last two
are believed to lend a mysterious enchantment to the landscape
here. That is why when people praise the scenery of Lake Erhai,
they use the phrase Yin'Cang'Yu'Er or Silvery Diancang Mountain
and Jade Green Erhai.
Lake Erhai is famed for what is known as the three isles,
the four tongues of land and the nine coves. The three isles
refer to Jinsuo, Chiwen and Yuji respectively. The four tongues
of land are Qingshabi, Daguanzhou, Yuanyang and Malian. The
nine coves are named respectively Lotus, Stork, Coil, Phoenix,
Dream, Horn, Slope, Top Rock and Big Field. Rowing on the
lake on a moonlit night, one will see the reflection of the
moon appearing fitfully on the ripply waters, creating a mystifying
effect on the eye.
There are many places of historical interest at Lake Erhai.
On the Isle of Jinsuo there are the remains of the summer
villa of the king of Nanzhao, an independent state in this
region while the rest of China was ruled by the emperors of
the Tang Dynasty. On the west bank of Lake Erhai are the remains
of the capital of Nanzhao known as Taihe City, the three pagodas
of Chongsheng Temple and the remains of the ancient town of
Yangqiemie. Today, people can go holidaying in a park at the
southern end of Lake Erhai.
At the foot of Yunnong Peak, a foothill of the Diancang Mountain
in Dali county is the well-known Butterfly Spring. Story has
it that there was once a girl named Wengu whom a local lord
wanted to take to himself as concubine, by force if necessary.
In protest, she and her lover jumped into a deep pool and
drowned themselves. It is said that they have metamorphosed
into a pair of giant butterflies. Hence the name the Butterfly
Spring. By the side of the spring is an ancient tree that
bends very low over the water. When the tree bursts into flower
each spring, the blossoms look like bright-coloured butterflies
while real butterflies are seen fluttering round the tree
in large numbers. Meanwhile those butterflies that have lighted
on the branches will have formed colourful ribbons hanging
sometimes down from the very top of the tree to the water
of the spring. In the groves nearby there are also bright-coloured
butterflies fluttering in swarms in endless sport. This rare
sight is known as "a dancing party of butterflies."
Near the spring are such architectural structures as the Butterfly
Tower, the Pavilion for Enjoying Cool Air, the Flower Terrace,
etc. There is also a stone archway on which are inscribed
the three Chinese characters of Hu'Die'Quan or Butterfly Spring,
in the calligraphy of Guo Moruo the twentieth-century poet
and author.
Other places of historical and cultural interest in Yunnan
Province include: in Kunming, Green Lake, Grand View Mansion,
Golden Temple, Bamboo Temple and the two big monasteries of
Flower Pavilion and Great Flower in the Western Hills; in
Dali, the Cang Mountains, the Golden Roof Temple, the Three
Pagoda Temple, the Snake Bone Tower, etc.; in Lunan, the Stone
Forest; in the County of Jianchuan, the Grottoes of Stone
Bell Mountain; in Menghai County, the Eight-Sided Pavilion;
in the County of Chengjiang, Fuxiang Lake; in the County of
Yongping, the iron chain suspension bridge at Jihong; in Yuanmou
County, the site of the cultural remains of what is known
as "the Yuanmou man" and fossils thereto related.
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