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After visiting the Huangguoshu or Yellow Fruit Tree Waterfall,
Xu Xiake, the well-known geographer and traveler of the Ming
Dynasty (1368-1644), described what he was as follows:
A clear river overturned roars and rumbles vertically down,
Ten thousand silky white cascades descending from the skies.
In China there are more than one hundred waterfalls that are
comparatively well-known and scores of what might be called
multiple waterfalls. Some of these waterfalls are awe-inspiring
sights, cascading down overwhelmingly as though a sea or a
river had been overturned. Some of them are of a more gentle
nature, hanging down from the precipices like a sheet of water,
shimmering and wavering as if engaging in graceful dancing.
Some of them are charmingly shy, half-hidden behind green
leafy trees in deep elegant seclusion. Some of them are manifold
in form, cascading down from one altitude to another and still
another, now separating into a number of slender cascades
and now uniting to from one mighty plunging waterfall. There
are also waterfalls that come gushing out of a cave in the
mountainside, looking like a silvery up-ended stream gushing
into a pure crystal waterpool.
What is known as the Huangguoshu Waterfall does not compare
favourably in all respects with other waterfalls in China.
It does not have as big a fall as the Jiaolong or Flood Dragon
Waterfall in Taiwan. It does not spread as wide as the Nuorilang
Waterfall of Jiu'Zhai'Gou or Ravine of Nine Stockaded Villages
in northern Sichuan. In terms of volume of water, it is inferior
to the Hukou or Kettlespout Waterfall on the Yellow River.
Nevertheless, the Yellow Fruit Tree Waterfall has great appeal
to the aesthetic sense of men because of its elegantly-proportioned
shapeliness. For this it has earned the reputation of being
"the most magnificent and exquisite karst waterfall in
the world".
Huang'Guo'Shu or Yellow Fruit Tree is a region of great scenic
charm situated along the border of the County of Zhenning
and the County of Guanling in southwest Guizhou Province.
The waterfall with the same name is situated on Baishui or
White Water River about 15km southwest of the county sea of
Zhenning. What is known as the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau is a
region dominated by limestone formations, higher at the western
end and dropping gradually in the three other directions.
Thanks to erosion by water, the region is characterized by
numerous fissures and sinkholes in the land. When the White
Water River reaches the neighbourhood of Huang'Guo'Shu, the
riverbed drops steeply at nine successive points, forming
thus a series of nine waterfalls. At Huang'Guo'Shu there is
a sudden drop of over 70 metres and the width of the fall
exceeds 80 metres. Here the large body of water comes plunging
down one the rocks below, creating a thundering, soul-stirring
boom that can be heard for miles around, like the noise of
thousands of horses in stampede. Under the waterfall is a
pool seventeen metres deep, known as the Rhinoceros Pool.
According to local tradition, a rhinoceros was once seen
coming ashore from the pool to charge at an ox working in
the fields. Hence the name. The waterpool which is surrounded
on three sides by high mountains that look emerald green,
contrasting sharply and to each other's advantage with the
silk-coloured water in the White Water River. Where the cataract
hits the pool, the water is tossing and tumbling like mad,
throwing up silvery spray with fine particles of water reaching
heights of tens of metres and then scattering in minute droplets,
creating a pleasant coolness in the air. Looking up at the
cascading waterfall by the poolside one sees sheer cragged
precipice down which torrential waters roll irresistibly down,
reminding the beholder of the beholder of the following lines
in a poem by Li Bai, as translated by X.Y. Yang and Gladys
Yang:
Down it cascades a sheer three thousand feet-
As if the Silver River were falling from heaven.
The Silver River is the Chinese name for the Milky Way.
In summer, when the sun strikes down on the misty vapour
formed of minute droplets of water spraying from the cataract
a rainbow will rise over the surrounding precipices setting
off the white sheets of falling water and accentuating the
beauty of the scenery around. At night, the temperature will
drop sharply with the fine droplets of water thrown up by
the descending water body forming a chill drizzle over Huang'Guo'Shu.
Facing the cataract on a ledge on the cliff opposite is a
traditional-style pavilion from which one can have a distant
view of the waterfall. Veiled behind a light haze, it now
comes into view and now recedes into nothingness, like a phantasmal
presence.
In a recess in the rocky cliffs behind the cataract is a
cave. Lying hidden by the sheets of water cascading down,
it is known as the Water Curtain Cave. The cave is about 20
metres deep. On the walls of the cave are carved four big
Chinese characters: Xue'Yin'Chuan'Xia or Beautiful Rainbow
on a Ground of Snow. There are three openings in the cave
out of which one can look and enjoy the wondrous sight of
the waterfall. In this picturesque cave which many believe
to be the most beautiful Water Curtain Caves in China, one
can enjoy the sight of the majestic cataract and experience
the thrill of being exposed to its thundering roars.
In recent years, several more waterfalls along with caves
and picturesque rocks of scenic value have been discovered
in the vicinity of the Yellow Fruit Tree Waterfall, adding
to the allure of the scenic spot. Near the Yellow Fruit Tree
Waterfall are now 18 falls at nine different levels, each
with a drop of more than ten metres. And many are the waterpools
formed by the cascading waters. The more notable of these
waterfalls are the Steep Slope Waterfall, the Snail Bank Waterfall,
the Dripping Bank Waterfall, the Giant Tree Rock Waterfall,
the Skyhigh Waterfall, and the Guan Waterfall.
Surrounded by range upon range of high mountains and cascading
mountain streams, the Yellow Fruit Tree Waterfall is situated
in the midst of superb natural scenery. There are many picturesque
rocks and caves nearby. About three kilometers to the north
of the waterfall is Zhedou Cave which penetrates 300 metres
into the mountain with many spacious chambers inside and many
interesting rock formations such as stalactites and stalagmites,
columns and curtains. About one kilometer east of the county
seat of Zhenning, on Dongpo Hill, is the Rhinoceros Cave which
is 400 metres deep. This is a winding cave intricate in structure
where the variform stalactites and stalagmites have a dazzling
effect on the eye. Halfway into the cave is a big circular
chamber known as "the palace" which is so spacious
that there is room for a thousand men. The natural coffer
ceiling is covered all over with necklace-like patterns. In
the center is a solid thick rock pillar more than 30 metres
high, standing firmly upright, with naturally formed nodes
that divide the pillar into even sections which are covered
with natural patterns in the form of fine thin ribs, liking
like ivory carving. On the left hand side is a rock face that
looks like a huge curtain hanging from the ceiling, complete
with sweeping folds. The colours becoming, it looks very much
like the velvet curtains in a theatre. At the end of the cave
is a deep pool with lucid clear waters, 70 metres long, 20
metres wide and 27 metres in depth.
What are known as Guansuo Peak and Shajia Mountain are two
other places of scenic interest. The former is situated some
20 km east of the county seat of Guanling. The road up the
peak is zigzagged, consisting of 43 hairpin turns. At the
sixteenth hairpin turn one enters a secluded world of luxuriant
trees and mysterious caverns where there is the Dragon Spring
Temple dedicated to Guan Yu the famous warrior of the Kingdom
of Shuhan. Near the temple is the Galloping Horse Spring where
the crystal-clear water has a delicate sweet taste and is
compared to sweet dew by some people. According to a folk
take, when during the Period of the Three Kingdoms(A.D. 220-280)
Zhuge Liang mounted his expedition to the south, he had under
him the third son of General Guan Yu whose name was Guan Suo.
When the young commander arrived at this spot with his men,
he felt very thirsty. Suddenly his horse started galloping
round and water came gushing out automatically. Hence the
name Galloping Horse Spring. A little to the right is another
spring whose water, about a foot deep, never runs dry or overflows.
Known as Ya'Quan or the Mute Spring, it is believed that anyone
who drinks its water will become a mute. Abut these two springs
Xu Xiake once made this comment: "How come that the two
springs, so near to each other, can have such inconceivably
different properties!" As people in ancient times could
not explain why the spring water could make men lose the faculty
of speech, they simply covered it up with a huge slab of stone
and set up a stone tablet on which is inscribed a warning
to passersby that since ancient times the spring has made
mutes of men. What's known as Guansuo Peak is a towering,
heave-reaching mountain whose forbidding appearance makes
one marvel at this prodigious wonder of nature. On the peak
stands a high tower on which is hung a horizontal board inscribed
by Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) with the
four characters of Dian'Qian'Suo'Yue which means Key Strategic
Point of Yunnan and Guizhou. By the side of the tower is a
memorial temple dedicated to Guan Suo. According to the local
people, Guan Suo was a great general who loved the people.
Because of his contributions to the regions known as Gauzhou
today, the temple was built in his memory and the peak was
named after him.
Shaijia Mountain which is located about ten kilometers south
of the county seat f Guanling is reputedly where Zhuge Liang
had stationed his army temporarily on his southern expedition
and where they had sunned their armour. Hence the name Shaijie
or Sunning the Armour. The steep, precipitous summit is liver-coloured.
Here is found what is known as Hong'Yan'Bei or Red Rock Tablet.
Referred to as the "No.1 Wonder of South China, it is
ten metres wide and 6 metres hig on which is seen as inscription
consisting of some 40 characters, seemingly graven. The characters
are irregular in size and shape. Looking up at it from down
below, the characters are blue while the gound is deep red,
looking like deep-graven large-size characters. But standing
before it one cannot see any sign of carving. The script is
indeterminate and indeterminable, neither of the Zhuan-style
nor of the Big-Zhuan style and so exotic-looking that no one
is able to decipher them. It is impossible to say whether
they are the work of man or of nature. Having been a mystery
since ancient times, it is still unsolved and insoluble today.
Other places of historical and cultural interest in Guizhou
Province include: in the provincial capital Guiyang and Hongfu
temple on Qianling Mountain, Wenchang Tower, Dongshan Temple,
the Underground Park, Jiaxiu Tower, etc. the and drum towers
of Dong nationality in Liping county.
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